How to use a rust converter? Personal experience

I have a few rusted areas on my trunk, I do not remove them on purpose to experiment in the war against rust.

In the nearest store-bought the first rust converter, at a triple price, as water and acid are pennies, and the thieves need to make a profit!

You can look for separately selling pure orthophosphoric acid in chemist stores, where the price per liter will be about $ 3, in the end, mixed with water, will be almost 4 liters of this “converter rust.
Only without the miracle zinc, which is only needed to attract the public and raise the price.

So, follow the manufacturer’s instructions: remove a loose layer of rust, rub the converter with a brush, after drying remove the excess deposit of the composition with a brush, then apply the second layer, wait 30-40 minutes and again remove the excess deposit of this miracle composition with a brush!

As a result, we get this…

In theory, you can degrease, apply primers and paint, everything as the manufacturer said, many do so, as I saw in many reports on the preparation of the body to paint!
And now let’s look further.

The crux of the problem is the dark gray and black dots, the manufacturer is silent on the fact that they should NOT be there!
And why shouldn’t they be there!

After all the procedure, which indicated the manufacturer, I dug out the dark spot with a screwdriver and that’s what I saw there

And there’s rust. And such, as if it was not “converted at all, EVEN WITH CYINK” – which means that if we follow the manufacturer’s instructions, we just hide the rust in the roots.

I started picking at every dark spot and this is what came out:

Here are my instructions for using rust converters:

  • You strip away any loose rust.
  • rub it in with a brush
  • After a few minutes, wipe it off with a rag.
  • scrub the corrosion again with sandpaper, brushes, drill, sandblast, whatever you want…
  • Rub the converter in with a brush again, wait a few minutes…
  • wipe it off again with a rag and sandblast the area.
  • And only then, when the metal is white without gray-black spots, you can degrease, paint with acidic primer, etc.
    At least 10 times, at least 20 times smear and scrub!
    Yes it is long, yes it is hard, yes in services nobody will do so…

There should be no intermediate layer of this dried upconverter, it should only help to CLEAN up the rust, not transform it into a “pretty wrap”.

I remove the remains of the dried converter with sandpaper, and better yet go over the place a solution of soda, which would neutralize the effect of the acid! I dabbed the converter and saw that black spots do not appear, then wiped it immediately with a rag, wiped the place again with good sandpaper, and then degrease and you can primer.

After my manipulations, I got this result!

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